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and gone, and it was full, full of adventure!! The word of the day was flexibility and between the rain, cold and hail there was plenty of laughter to be had.
at Mountain Crossings to stay in the hostel. Due to work and family obligations, North Star, McGuyver, Sherpette and I did not get there til about 10:30 and we arrived to find the hostel full to the gills. There were lots of South-bound AT hikers there with about five or six other Dames. All in all, we had 11 Dames do the backpack trip with a twelfth joining us on Saturday. We walked in to find Pirate, our favorite guy Dame, waiting for us. He said hello, graciously accepted the Dames offering of Makers Mark, and proceeded to give us some of the chocolate cake he had made. You can see why we all love Pirate! The hostel itself brought back a flood of memories as I entered and took in the piles of gear and smell of a thousand hikers. The bunk beds were creaking as people hauled themselves up and down, while new hikers and trail- worn south bounders mingled and talked. It is like summer camp for adults complete with the snoring and smelly socks on the floor. Man, I love this place. After a questionable nights sleep, a south bounder named Silver Potato turned on the lights at 6:30 am and said ‘good morning everyone’ loudly. I would have killed him if it weren’t for the fact that he was overwhelmingly happy and cheerful. I guess if I were thirty miles from the end of a 2,200 mile hike, I would be happy too! We all slowly got up and begun to get ourselves together. Our shuttle, driven by Survivor Dave, was due in about 8:30, so we had lots to do before piling into his car and heading for the trail. As we milled around, the hostel door opened and in walked Hiker Nutt and her sister, who we all called “Sister”. Hiker Nutt did 650 miles of the AT last year and her sister was on her very first backpacking trip. These were the last Dames to arrive and we were so glad to see them! As I dressed in my worn hiking clothes and tied my hair back in a bandana, Miranda, one of our new Dames, said that I was looking more and more like my trail journal. “It is quite a metamorphosis” she said. I grinned and realized that the same could be said for all of us. We came in with our clean hair and cotton clothing, but we were quickly changing into strong, outdoor women. Gone was the lipstick and mascara. In its place were polypropylene, duct tape and gaiters. We were definitely ready……… As we started to load into Dave’s truck for the ride to Woody Gap, I realized that the lucky star that Trail Dames had been living under for the last year and a half had disappeared. Gone were the sunshine, blue skies and gentle breezes of all of our other hikes. Today we had rain, fog and cold. Lots of rain, fog and cold. I looked around and wondered how everyone would handle this situation. It is one thing for the experienced backpackers in the group to head out in weather like this…..we KNOW we love to backpack. But we had lots of first-time backpackers with us and I felt like I had let them down by taking them out in weather like this. Would they hate it? Would they be forever turned off from backpacking? Due to the size of our group, we had to shuttle over in two car loads, so Sherpette, North Star, Hiker Nutt, Sister, Sweet Pea, Leslie and Shoe were about an hour ahead of our group. When MacGyver, Miranda, Margaret, and I finally got to Woody Gap, we found the parking lot closed due to the forest fires they had been experiencing all week long. Of course, we didn’t have to worry about the fires because it was raining. We were immersed in clouds and it was cold and wet. But somehow, that didn’t seem to matter. The three women that were with me were all on their very first backpacking trip and there they stood grinning. In the rain. I knew then that I was very lucky to hike with these women!! We started up the trail and spent the next five hours enjoying the ups and downs of the AT. Miranda and I hiked together a lot and let me tell you, that woman was born to hike. She had this great rhythm and looked like she had been doing this forever. Both she and Margaret had borrowed gear, which you know was not as comfortable as it could have been. MacGyver owned most of her gear, but none of it was as light as it could have been. Yet all three of them smiled and laughed and made their way up the trail like they had been doing it forever. We stopped at a beautiful overlook and proceeded to joke about the view……there is nothing like looking straight out into white nothing- ness. I told them that at least now they knew what the inside of a cloud tastes like! How many of their friends could say that? On top of this mountain I jumped into a rousing ‘dance of the real woman’, but the other three just looked at me and raised their eyebrows. Oh well….maybe they aren’t quite ready for that. It was here that we ran into our friends from the hostel, Silver Potato and Cracker. This couple has been hiking for five months and they were within 24 hours of finishing the Appalachian Trail. They were just as nice as they could be and I wasted no time invited Cracker to come hike with us in the future. She just grinned and said that she just might do that. My hope is that the Dames can come get her to give a talk on hiking the AT south bound. She and Silver Potato both seemed to be really, really neat people and it would be great to learn from them.
healthy lunch of gorp, beef jerky and tuna packets in the middle of the day. Unfortunately though, it came back as soon as we continued to hike and persisted till we got to camp. We were walking along when we heard several women yelling at us. We turned the corner and found ourselves in the middle of tent city. The Dames had taken over Jarrard Gap and we were home for the night. I left Miranda, Margaret and MacGyver to set up their tents and went down to check out the water situation. The spring was small, but thanks to the work of North Star and Shoe, it was collecting in a small depression in the ground. As Shoe pumped water into her bag, she was struggling more and more to depress the filter handle. It finally exploded and shot a big stream of water right at North Star!! We bent over double laughing as Shoe realized that she had forgotten to open the valve to her water bag. Oh well…..it wasn’ t like we weren’t all wet anyway! Shoe fixed the valve, finished pumping water for herself and a few of the others and left North Star and I to finish our own filtering. We sat in the mist talking, laughing and pumping till we had enough water to share. When we got back to camp, everyone had their tents set up and was cooking dinner. I threw my tent up, tried to hang a bear bag rope, lost a bear bag, borrowed Sweet Peas rope, gnashed my teeth together for a while, threw the rock about 4,000 times and finally got it hung. It was growing dark as I wolfed down some mashed potatoes and stood in the rain talking to a few Dames. Unfortunately, the rain soon drove us all into our tents. There wasn’t going to be much socializing tonight! After changing into my warm, dry fleece, I climbed into my sleeping bag, looked down at my watch and realized that it was 6:15. It was pitch dark, raining, and only 6:15. I fell into a hard, deep sleep and woke up later to look at my watch and realize that it was…….8: 15. It was going to be a long night. A few minutes later a soft voice came from outside my tent. It was MacGyver. She was really, really sick. After talking for a minute, she said that she would try and stay warm and dry and make it through the night. I told her that in the morning, we would get her off the trail if she could make it till then. If you have ever been sick in the middle of the woods, you know what kind of miserable night she had. I felt so sorry for her. But she was a trooper. It rained torrentially during the night and the winds grew stronger and stronger. Lying in your tent, you could hear the wind start to come over the mountains, and when it finally hit you, it was roaring. All in all, it was a very interesting night. At 6:45 in the morning, I called Survivor Dave and left him a message telling him that we needed to get a sick Dame off the trail. Luckily, we were an easy two mile hike from a road at that point. Everyone got up around 7:30 and we had a little impromptu meeting. I told them that they all had a choice….bail with MacGyver and me, or keep hiking and meet us at Neels Gap. Everyone agreed that they wanted to keep hiking. This is when it really hit me what an amazing group of women had come on this trip. All of their gear was wet, it was cold, and they had not had a chance to really do any visiting. It would have been so easy to throw in the towel. But they were all smiling and looking forward to the days hike! I was really, really impressed with all of them. If a great attitude is all it takes to be a backpacker, then these women had it made. This is also when we decided to introduce a little flexibility into our plans. Our itinerary had us hiking into Neels Gap, through Mountain Crossings and a mile further up the trail to camp. Everyone’ s gear was soaked and it was cold, so we all agreed to hike to Neels and stay in the hostel for the night. That way, tomorrow we would add a mile to our hike, but we would be slack packing, making it easier. Given the weather, it just felt like the right thing to do.
Mountain before the weather got any worse. As we had discussed our plans for the day, a small sliver of sun had peeked through the clouds, giving us hope and optimism. As the second group prepared to leave, I looked up the trail to see JJ, one of our favorite Dames, hiking up the path. She had come to meet us and up she walked with a big smile on her face. As soon as I told her what was going on, she said, “Well, I am going with you.” We agreed that MacGyver shouldn’t be carrying the full weight of her gear so North Star decided to stay with us. The four of us would hike out together, helping MacGyver. We divvied up most of the heavy stuff in MacGyver’ s pack as she stood there protesting weakly. Let me tell you, this is a woman that would just about rather crawl then let other people carry her gear! It was a true testament to how bad she felt that she let us do it at all! But she did and off we went towards the lake and our shuttle. After an easy hike, we circled around the road trying to find the best place to meet our shuttle. We had no cell service at all, so we finally hunkered down next to the road, waiting for Dave. As we sat there, it would rain off and on while the sun struggled to come out. Finally it started to sleet. It was really cool! It wasn’t cold enough for it to accumulate, and we all had plenty of gear to keep warm, so it was just a neat experience to see it falling and gathering on our clothes. After stopping for a while, it started again and I must admit, it lost a bit of its charm the second time around. Where was that shuttle?!
few minutes, they turned around, approached us and slowed down. North Star said under her breath, “They are going to see if we need help”. Well, they pulled up, rolled down the window and asked if we knew how to get to the trail. So much for chivalry….. We thought it was actually pretty cool……instead of swooping in to rescue us, they asked us where the trail was. And we knew. We are women hear us roar. It wasn’t long till our very own knight in shining armor showed up in the form of Survivor Dave. We piled into the truck and headed back to Neels Gap and the warm, dry hostel. We were all anxious to hear how the other Dames had fared on their hikes. As we unloaded our gear, we caught up with Leslie and Sweet Pea. It seemed that they had just beaten the bad weather over the top of Blood Mountain. They had arrived at the hostel before us and were hanging out, enjoying the scene. Six Dames accounted for…..now where were the others? We kept walking out and looking up the AT, hoping to see the other Dames come hiking down. I had strongly suggested that they take the foul-weather trail around Blood due to the weather, but we weren’t really sure if they had or not. Just as we were starting to get worried, a big white van pulled up and out tumbled three Dames. It turns out that the sleet made them wary, so they hiked down off the AT to the Lake and Sherpette hustled them a ride back to the hostel. Actually, word has it that she stood in the middle of the road, telling the other two Dames that the next car that came along was taking them back to Neels whether they wanted to or not!! It turns out that the next car was actually a van filled with several young men from the University of Georgia. And they kindly agreed to rescue these three Dames. See…..chivalry is not dead!! As we stood around the hostel talking over one another and comparing notes, up hiked our last two Dames, Hiker Nutt and Sister. It turns out that they HAD gone over Blood Mountain in the bad weather and saw swirling, sideways snow and high winds on top of the mountain. Sister took a video of it and it actually sounds like they enjoyed the experience immensely. As everyone laughed and dripped dry in the den of the hostel, we had one final meeting. It was unanimously agreed that we had all had a very good time, but that everyone had had enough of being cold and wet. We were going to have a great celebratory dinner at Turners Corner and head home. The trail will be there next year, and a good time was had by all.
staff at Mountain Crossings, we all drove down to Turners Corner. We took our illustrious shuttle driver, Dave, and spread out over two big tables. As we laughed, ate cheeseburgers and shared stories I looked around and felt extremely lucky. Lucky that I was hiking with these women…. these women that smiled through hail storms, rain, cold and sickness. Everyone was open and flexible and had an amazing attitude, making the whole thing a really fun experience. Next year, I will put in a request for better weather, but as for hiking partners, it just doesn’t get any better then these 11 women. |
| TD Back Pack Trip- Appalachian Trail, Fall 2008 |